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Ponderosa pine near Sisters, Oregon |
Most of us in the Pacific Northwest are familiar with the ponderosa
pine. Just the mention of it brings to mind its long needles and distinctive,
golden bark. But where do you picture these pines growing? Most likely it’s east
of the Cascade Mountains, perhaps around Bend. So, it might surprise you to find
out that ponderosa pine is also native to Oregon’s Willamette Valley. The
ponderosas of the Willamette Valley are adapted to the wet conditions found
west of the Cascade Mountains. Even more surprising, these natives are better
adapted to wet areas than the Douglas firs that grow in the valley. I remember
that we had two large ponderosas growing in a particularly wet area on the farm
where I grew up northwest of Eugene. Although I didn’t know a ponderosa from a
pond-lily at the time, I remember the distinctive look of these trees.
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Willamette Valley ponderosa at Tualatin Hills Nature Park |
The ponderosa pines that grow west of the Cascades and on
the west slopes of the Sierras in California
have been classified as a separate subspecies, sometimes called “Pacific
ponderosa pine” (scientific name: Pinus
ponderosa subspecies benthamiana).
Those that have adapted to the wet conditions of the Willamette
Valley are often called “Willamette Valley ponderosa pine.” Studies of ancient pollen show that these pines have been present in the Willamette Valley
for over 7,000 years.
Willamette Valley ponderosa pines have long needles growing in bundles of three, like other varieties of ponderosa pine. The bark and cones also look similar. The needles and cones of the subspecies are a little shorter, and the bark is not as thick, but none of these differences are definitive. The key difference is that Willamette Valley can thrive in wet locations in the Willamette Valley. That alone indicates that they are clearly genetically different from the other trees of the benthamiana subspecies. Some have suggested giving them official status as a separate variety, with the name Pinus ponderosa variety willamettensis.
Before European settlement in the 1850’s, ponderosas grew in scattered locations all over the Willamette Valley, mostly in wet, boggy areas along with ash, and on hillsides with white oak or Douglas fir. Like the ponderosas east of the Cascade Mountains, the
Willamette Valley natives depend on frequent fires
to eliminate competing conifers. These naturally occurring fires would burn up
the grasses, shrubs and other competing conifers like Douglas fir and grand
fir. But the thick bark on the ponderosas enabled them to survive these fires.
The earliest inhabitants of the Willamette
Valley understood this
and used it to their advantage, setting fires to clear brush and other
conifers. This maintained open ponderosa woodlands good for hunting. The
European settlement of the Willamette
Valley changed all that. These
newcomers cut down the trees for lumber and other uses, turning the woodlands
in the valley into farmland. A sawmill was built in 1853 at Monroe, south of Corvallis, where there was a good supply of ponderosa pine. Sustainable forestry wasn’t a thing at that time. Soon all the nearby pines were cut down, and the mill closed. It wasn’t long before there were few ponderosas growing anywhere in the Willamette Valley.
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Willamette Valley pines at the Oregon Garden |
Recently, researchers wanted to see if they could
restore ponderosas to the
Willamette
Valley. Plantings of
east-side and west-side ponderosas on a test site near
Corvallis
determined that the east-side trees did not grow well in this wet environment. Any successful restoration would
have to use seeds of ponderosas native to the valley. In the 1990’s researchers
began collecting seeds from various
Willamette
Valley locations and growing trees in
a seed orchard near
St. Paul,
Oregon. The seed orchard has provided seeds for restoration and planting in parks and other locations where the trees can thrive. Not much restoration has been done, but you can now find them here and there in parks.
The best location I’ve found for mature Willamette Valley ponderosa pines is the Tualatin Hills Nature Park in Beaverton. There are large ponderosas scattered here and there all over the park. Just look for the long needles on the trail and then look up. You’ll likely see a large ponderosa.
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Pine-Oak woods at the Oregon Garden |
Willamette
Valley ponderosa pines have been
planted in many other parks in the Portland
area. For example, Cooper Mountain Nature
Park and the Tualatin River National
Wildlife Refuge have plantings of Willamette
Valley natives.
The Rediscovery Forest
at the Oregon Garden
in Silverton has a section of Willamette
Valley ponderosa pine.
These were planted in neat rows in 2002. For comparison, some east-side
ponderosas are planted next to them. Nearby, more ponderosas were planted with
Oregon white oak, showing how these trees grew together 150 years ago forming a
pine-oak savannah.
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Locations of Willamette Valley Ponderosa from Oregon Flora |
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Ponderosa at Hagg Lake |
On a recent hike at Henry Hagg Lake south of Forest Grove, I was
surprised to see a few ponderosas growing along the trail. Keep your eyes open
when you are hiking on local trails in the Willamette Valley.
You may see a Willamette
Valley ponderosa pine. If
the bark doesn’t have the bright colors of the ponderosas east of the Cascades,
be patient. This only appears on very old trees. Enjoy these stately trees as
they grow older. You may see the brightly colored bark in about 75 years.
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More info
Ponderosa pines at the Gymnosperm Database